DIAMOND CUTTING

Rough diamonds are not brilliant and can appear greasy. Diamond cutting encompasses a number of processes that bring out the beauty of gem diamonds. These processes include cleaving, sawing or laser cutting, and polishing. A diamond cutter seeks to enhance the brilliance and fire of each stone and to eliminate imperfections, such as cracks and cloudiness. The cutter develops a plan that will accomplish these goals while still producing a gem of the greatest size and hence maximum value. About half of a natural diamond’s size is lost in diamond cutting.

Examining the stone is the first step in diamond cutting. The cutter determines where cleavage planes lie and decides how the stone can best be divided by cleaving and sawing. Ink marks on the rough diamond serve as a guide for the shaping to follow.

The cutter next places the diamond firmly in a holder for cleaving. A light blow of a hammer on the cleaving iron, which is held against the diamond parallel to the cleavage plane, cleaves the stone. In present-day practice cutters more often saw diamonds or cut them with a laser rather than cleave them. The saw is a thin metal disk, the edge of which is impregnated with a mixture of diamond dust and oil.

Polishing, the final step in the cutting of a diamond, consists of forming the facets of the finished stone. Cutters most often choose the “brilliant” form, which has 58 facets. During the polishing process a mount called a dop firmly holds the gem. A flat, horizontally revolving cast-iron wheel coated with a mixture of diamond dust and oil forms the facets. The cutter holds the stone in its dop against the surface of the wheel until the facet forms. In the course of polishing, the cutter moves the stone many times in its dop to present new surfaces for polishing.